Painting Warhammer Skaven

  1. Prime figures black.
  2. Drybrush a medium brown or gray onto the fur.
  3. Paint all the armor and weapons Flat Aluminum.
  4. Paint the clothing.
  5. Wash the entire figure with Paynes Gray.
  6. Highlight the fur with the base color mixed with some white.
  7. Highlight the clothing.
  8. Paint any wood Raw Sienna and wash with Raw Umber.
  9. Paint the eyes red and highlight the pupil with a touch of orange.
  10. Paint the hands and feet magenta.
  11. Highlight the hands and feet with light pink.
  12. Pick out nails and teeth in white/beige.
  13. Paint the shield.
  14. Base with railroad flocking.
  15. Seal.

If you're painting plague monks, the fur and feet will be painted to same way are regular Skaven but I like to paint their robes dark greens and purples in the style as Nurgle figures.

Here are two other techniques from Packmasters Bob Lippman and Jim Williamson.

Jim's Technique
  1. Prime white.
  2. Use a really loud color and ink the robes. (don't worry about spillover).
  3. Drybrush robes in two stages.
  4. Paint the fur medium gray.
  5. Ink the fur with a brown or grey or black.
  6. Drybrush the fur in one or two stages.
  7. Pick out the details on the model.

Bob's technique
  1. Paint face, hands, feet and tail bronzed flesh.
  2. Paint arms, legs, top of head, sides of face (basically all fur) dark brown.
  3. Chestnut wash all the fleshy parts.
  4. Drybrush light brown over dark brown (Citadel Snakebite Leather or Polly-S canine yellow).
  5. Drybrush bronzed flesh back over the flesh when ink is dry (optional).
  6. Paint robes either dark purple or dark green or dark red.
  7. Drybrush robes in highlight shade.
  8. Paint weapons chainmail if metal, brown with tan highlights if wood.
  9. Paint toenails bright red, front teeth white, pupils bright red.
  10. Add white, yellow or red trim on robes if I'm feeling up to it.
  11. Detail skaven runes on trim of robes if I'm REALLY feeling frisky.

I use a special paint called Gunze Sangyo Aqueous Hobby Color on glass like the poisoned wind globes. You can also use a gloss varnish after sealing. This dries to give a very wet shiny look to the globe as if it were real glass.